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22nd January 2019 |
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This years
annual Vintages/LCBO sponsored "An
Evening of Scottish Virtuosity" event in
Toronto, Canada saw Glenmorangie and
Ardbeg whisky creator Dr. Bill Lumsden
present some very rare premium whiskies
from their extensive ranges, and once
again our guest writer, Murray Cohen, a
Member of the International Order of the
Companions of the Quaich and Scotch Malt
Whisky Forum Member was there to review
the event and of course, the whiskies.

The premier event of the Toronto single
malt scene, "An Evening of Scottish
Virtuosity 2019" which is sponsored by Vintages/LCBO
was held at the prestigious National
Club on January 15, 2019. Dr. Bill
Lumsden, Director of Distilling, Whisky
Creation and Whisky Stocks representing
the Glenmorangie Company led the
structured tasting of nine single malts
from Glenmorangie and Ardbeg
distilleries. Bill had his hand in the
creation of many of the whiskies offered
by these two distilleries. His skill and
knowledge in everything "whisky" is only
matched by his quick wit and engaging
personality which made the evening fly
by too quickly.
Bill provided a cornucopia of factual
and anecdotal information regarding
whisky and particularly single malts
from these two distilleries. He provided
insight both as a scientist and whisky
aficionado. Bill’s PhD in chemistry
earned many years ago was actually on
the effects of calcium and magnesium on
fermentation.
Dr. Lumsden addressed some interesting
tidbits associated with Glenmorangie.
For example, the distillery has the
tallest copper stills in Scotland so the
mascot of Jeffrey the Giraffe makes
perfect sense. Glenmorangie was
established in 1843 but the stills were
changed in 1887 and were actually second
hand gin stills purchased in London. One
of his main points was that the
character of whisky is determined by
what goes on in the walls in the
distillery while the water from the
local source provides less than a five
per cent contribution to the final
product.
Bill also proffered some fascinating
information about Ardbeg Distillery.
There are only two stills and the spirit
still has a purifier on the lyne arm
that recycles vapors into more
floral/herbal complexity which balances
the whisky, particularly the peaty
component. No one would say that Ardbeg
is a floral whisky but the process and
science indicates that the purifier does
provide a balance in aroma and taste as
mentioned.
Dr. Lumsden is willing to push the
limits of whisky innovation with
offerings like Glenmorangie Signet with
chocolate malted barley and Ardbeg
grooves with experimentation with barrel
effects.
I should mention that the nine whiskies
presented were paired with some very
unique food items including seafood,
cheese, chocolate and meat. I choose not
to avail myself of any of the food items
as I wanted to create my own taste notes
without any outside food influence that
would obviously change my palate.
The nine whiskies tasted on the
night
at an "Evening
of Scottish Virtuosity 2019"
were:
-
Glenmorangie Spios Private Edition
No. 9
-
Glenmorangie 18 Year Old
-
Glenmorangie Signet
-
Glenmorangie Grand Vintage 1989
-
Ardbeg Grooves Committee Edition
-
Ardbeg Twenty Something 22 Year Old
-
Ardbeg Corryvreckan
-
Ardbeg Uigeadail
-
Ardbeg An OA
You will find my description of the nine
single malts sampled on the evening
below, along with my own detailed taste
notes and score for each of the eight
drams.
Most of the whiskies are available to
buy from specialist online whisky shops
such as
The Whisky Exchange and
Master of Malt
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Glenmorangie Spios Private Edition
No. 9 Review
|
This Highland whisky is bottled at 46%
ABV. The term "spios" translates as
"spicy" and has the benefit of
maturation in ex-American rye whisky
casks.
There were only a few thousand
cases produced.
Murray Cohen's Tasting Notes:
Colour:
Hay.
Nose:
Honey dew melon slices impress
immediately with waves of cotton candy
and sweet strawberry candy canes. Berry
salt water taffy awakens with a hint of
smoky mocha.
Taste:
Full-bodied and creamy. The spice makes
its stage presence known with an
additional surge of After Eight
chocolate mints with some subtle leather
elements and a peppery center.
Finish:
Long, the mint delightfully expands with
spice and leathery tannin protuberances
with a green/grassy aftertaste.
Comment:
This is the 9th limited edition bottling
in the Private Edition Series. The
whisky does have a spicy kick no doubt
from the rye whisky cask influence.
SMW Score
89.5/100
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Glenmorangie 18 Year Old Review
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Bottled at 43% ABV, this whisky
is aged for fifteen years in American
white oak casks and approximately 30% is
then transferred into Spanish Oloroso
casks for three years. When both
elements have reached 18 years, they are
blended back together. Dr. Lumsden calls
this whisky the Chanel NO. 5 of single
malts.
Murray Cohen's Tasting Notes:
Colour:
Gold.
Nose:
An assorted basket of fruit infuses into
your olfactory system. Vanilla bean and
banana split essences alight. A triad of
pralines, honey comb and perfume
beckons.
Taste:
Full-bodied and creamy. Mandarin oranges
headline a variety of exotic fruits
delightfully satisfying with a sweet
revolving door of flavors.
Finish:
Long. A citrus and honey melange with a
touch of butterscotch impresses. Fresh
cantaloupe shows up on the caboose.
Comment:
In some ways, this whisky fulfils my
definition of a dessert dram with
substance and panache.
SMW Score 90/100
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Glenmorangie Signet Review
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Bottled at 46% ABV.
According to Dr. Lumsden, the Signet is
his "magnum opus" of the Glenmorangie
brand and the most unusual whisky made
in Scotland. It is fashioned from
chocolate barley malt, i.e., malted
barley exposed to high temperature like
roasting coffee. He noted that the
chocolate
malt recipe is a complicated
one. There are obvious production
secrets but I have heard that some of
the whisky is 30 years old in addition
to some whisky aged in virgin oak casks.
Murray Cohen's Tasting Notes:
Colour:
Dark amber.
Nose:
Blood oranges pervade with mango
pudding, dried dark fruit compote and
jammy essences. Chocolate infused with
orange bits continue the journey.
Intense espresso crema ( sugary sweet),
black walnuts, roasted chestnuts,
Ethiopian bold black coffee and
chocolate pudding come in quick
succession like a kaleidoscope. A
leathery element can be discerned which
balances the sweetness.
Taste:
Full-bodied and oily. Swiss chocolate,
spumoni and tiramisu top the menu along
with fudge and crème de cacao. A late
key lime pie serving is shuffled into
the mix.
Finish:
Long. Mocha and spice elements abound
here with servings of Danish pastry.
High coca content dark chocolate and
fudgsicles give comfort. Caramelized
brown sugar adds to the equation.
Comment:
I just love the innovation here, the
thickness and robustness of the whisky,
the pungent aromas and flavors. It may
not be for everybody including a very
famous whisky pundit but for me it is a
shining star in the whisky galaxy and
one of my favorites.
SMW Score 96/100
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Glenmorangie Grand Vintage 1989 Review
|
Bottled at 43% ABV. This
Grand Vintage is the second release
Vintage Collection Bond House No.1
(former still house). The whisky is
finished in ex-Cote Rotie wine casks and
is 27 years old. There was a limited
supply of a few hundred cases produced.
Bill Lumsden is proud of his creation
here and it is deemed to be a
connoisseur’s single malt by many.
Murray Cohen's Tasting Notes:
Colour:
Reddish brown (if I may say, almost like
a Canadian Fall season leaf during one
stage of its life cycle.
Nose:
The whisky in my view develops its nose
in stages of temporal succession rather
than hitting you all at once, thus
moving along on an aromatic conveyer
belt. Buttermilk pancakes fuse with
sponge candy and then layers of
caramelized bananas, nectarines, vanilla
nougat, lemon meringue, butter pecan ice
cream and Belgian waffles.
Taste:
Full-bodied and creamy smooth. Once
again emphasis on shortbread/butter
biscuits, vanilla, toffee apple,
grandma’s homemade apple jellies with
candy store and pastry shop
reminiscences.
Finish:
Long. A spice halo hovers; the apple
theme perseverates. Pistachio and citrus
notes with an oaky presence enter the
picture.
Comment:
This quality whisky deserves time in the
glass so the complexity and layers of
aromas and flavors can unwrap and truly
express themselves. I could have spent
an hour with this one.
SMW Score
96/100
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Ardbeg Grooves Committee Edition Review
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Bottled at 51.6%% ABV.
Another of Bill’s creations, this whisky
was matured in ex-wine casks heavily
charred so as to produce grooves which
created a more intense flavor profile.
Murray Cohen's Tasting Notes:
Colour:
Light amber.
Nose:
A fruit bowl featuring exotic pickings
and highlighting cantaloupe enmeshed in
a smoky-peaty web with Islay written all
over it.
Taste:
Full-bodied and oily. An instantaneous
peat sledge hammer breaks off a sugary
crust followed by chilli and spice
flavors.
Finish:
Long. The spice becomes more potent and
surges along like delectable lava.
Comment:
This whisky is purported to be mellow
but in my view it does have a few
periods of intensity that should not go
unnoticed.
SMW Score
90/100
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Ardbeg Twenty Something 22 Year Old Review
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Bottled at 46.4% ABV. This
is the third bottling of the Ardbeg
Twenty Something matured in ex-bourbon
casks and distilled in 1996.
According
to Bill, "It offers an incredibly
flavourful, silky quality which is
exceptional. I can think of no better
way to celebrate those whisky lovers who
helped keep Ardbeg alive during its
darkest days."
Murray Cohen's Tasting Notes:
Colour:
Pale gold.
Nose:
Peat on a lollipop along with bananas
and vanilla leaking into maple syrup.
Waffle cone and a hint of pomegranate
evolve. The peat is ghost-like, there
and then subtly vanishes.
Taste:
Full-bodied. Peat n’ caramel alight with
a smooth nutty paste and a gentle
overall touch on the palate.
Finish:
Long. Wafts "dainty" smoke and peat with
spice tendrils and plays some sweet
Ardbeg soft music.
Comment:
Not your typical Ardbeg; a gentler more
humble whisky with appeal to those
wanting a less fiery, intense dram.
SMW Score
95/100
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Ardbeg Corryvreckan Review
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Bottled at 57.1% ABV. Here
we have a whisky from first fill and
refill ex-bourbon oak casks and French
oak casks (reportedly a 50-50 mix) and
takes its name from a tidal whirlpool to
the north of Islay. This one has many
accolades including winning World's Best
Single Malt Whisky at the World Whisky
Awards in 2010 and the Best No Age
Statement Scotch from Jim Murray's
Whisky Bible.
Murray Cohen's Tasting Notes:
Black laces (licorice) tied to a
particularly sweet anise with
buttermilk, French toast and breakfast
reminiscences.
Taste:
"In your face" with the smoke and peat
layers, spice, salt and a true Islay
send-off.
Finish:
Long. Fireplace elements maintain and
shine on what’s left after toasting
marshmallows on an open fire. A
subliminal sweetness flashes in and out.
Comment:
This is cask strength gem which fits the
mould of a solid Ardbeg whisky.
SMW Score
93.5/100
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Ardbeg Uigeadail Review
|
Bottled at 54.2% ABV. This
one is matured in sherry casks from
Spain and has 8 to 14 year old whiskies,
40% ex- sherry and 60% ex-bourbon casks
according to Bill.
Uigeadail refers to a
"dark and mysterious place" and is the
loch from which Ardbeg water flows.
Murray Cohen's Tasting Notes:
Colour:
Amber prism.
Nose:
Intense, voluptuous and meaty on the
olfactory sense. A sugary tinged peat
collides with medicine cabinet and
creosote flakes.
Taste:
Full-bodied, smooth and creamy. A lovely
bouquet of cherries jubilee, black
cherries, dark fruit compote, sultanas;
the sherry influence is unmistakable.
Finish:
Long. A sequence of enjoyable essences:
berries and peat, spice, Christmas
pudding, ginger and cinnamon. The
aftertaste goes to infinity.
Comment:
The whisky is a connoisseur’s dream
especially as regards the number and
variety of aromas and flavors packed
inside with a neat bow to open.
SMW Score
94.5/100
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Ardbeg An OA Review
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Bottled at 46% ABV. Here we
have a combination of spirit aged in
Pedro-Ximenez sherry casks and bourbon
barrels married in a French oak marrying
vat. An Oa is named after the Mull of Oa
in the south west of Islay.
Murray Cohen's Tasting Notes:
Colour:
Deep gold.
Nose:
Medicinal, seaweed, salt all wrapped in
black licorice strings. Anise lingers on
the nose with flashes of sweetness.
Taste:
Full-bodied and smooth. Peat and figs
feature with a longer fruity interlude
which bows to a spice melange. Dare I
say essence of cigar rolling by hand.
Finish:
Long. The spice and peat perseverate and
lichee nuts (unsweetened) enter the fray
with peanut on the half shell.
Comment:
A satisfying whisky in all respects.
Bill is very high on this whisky.
SMW Score
92/100
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