|
|
Whisky Forum
|
FAQ Search Memberlist
Register
Profile Log in to check your private messages Log in |
| View previous topic :: View next topic |
| Author |
Message |
bifter Master Of Malts

Joined: 10 Apr 2012 Posts: 1403 Location: East Lothian
|
Posted: Thu Jan 16, 2014 3:30 pm Post subject: Coffey Malt |
|
|
Thought I'd raise an old chestnut that may have lain fallow for a while. I'm sure many are familiar with it but I wanted to present my own view, perhaps raise awareness among others and canvass opinion here on the forum.
I was aware of the fact that Loch Lomond distillery was the only distillery to have both pot and column stills (I believe several others have in the past, e.g. Ben Nevis). I was also aware that they had fallen foul of SWA regulations about the classification of their whiskies, e.g. they were making whisky in a continuous still using 100% barley and labelling it as 'single malt', which the SWA took exception to. However I'd never, until recently, taken the time to look into the issue thoroughly. And, as far as I am aware, there has, as yet, been no definitive resolution to the issue.
Last night my sister asked me what the difference was between malt whisky and grain whisky and I told her that malt whisky has to be 100% barley and distilled in pot stills. But it got me thinking about what exactly the regulations say, particularly in light of the stooshie about Loch Lomond. As far as I can discern the SWA changed the regs in 2009, laying out new definitions for the types of Scotch whisky that can be produced, i.e. "Single Malt Scotch Whisky"?, "Single Grain Scotch Whisky"?, "Blended Scotch Whisky"?, "Blended Malt Scotch Whisky"? and "Blended Grain Scotch Whisky"?. The SWA maintain that this is in line with EU requirements to use 'traditional' production methods in order to qualify for regional protection of the product.
However at a stroke the regulations precluded Loch Lomond from continuing to produce 100% barley whisky in a continuous still and calling it 'single malt'. Loch Lomond was a fairly new distillery having started production in 1966 and only acquiring a continuous still in 1993. So if this practice had been started so recently one could understand how it would not be regarded as traditional. Indeed Campbell Evans of the SWA is quoted on the topic as saying:
| Quote: | | Traditionally, two types of Scotch Whisky have been produced, Malt Scotch Whisky produced by a distillation of a mash of malted barley in pot stills, and Grain Scotch Whisky produced by distillation of different cereals, including malted barley, in patent stills. |
However, looking around on t'interwebs, I found a few interesting articles that reveal things are not quite that simple:
http://www.maltmadness.com/whisky/loch-lomond.html
http://bikeshillsandstills.*/2011/03/02/loch-lomond-distillery-too-clever-for-its-own-good/
http://www.whiskyintelligence.com/2009/08/commnet-by-dave-broom-on-column-stills-being-traditional-equipment-for-malt-whisky-production/
It appears that there are numerous historical examples of malt from continuous stills - Cameronbridge, Yoker, Glenmavis, North of Scotland and more - according to Dave Broom's article. As Broom says "Coffey Malt may be unusual, but it has solid historical precedent." Of those linked above, Broom's article is the most informative as he details a dialogue with the SWA who, it would seem, wish to pretend that such practices were extremely rare.
The thing is that Loch Lomond were not exactly uncompromising. They didn't insist on defining their product as single malt and suggested an additional category to be included in the regulations (though I can't find out if any term was coined). However the SWA held fast. Going back to Campbell Evans again he said:
| Quote: | | The further category being floated does not therefore reflect traditional Scotch Whisky distillation and practice. Such a move would undermine the proposals and confuse consumers. The product in question is in any event already covered by the term 'Single Grain Scotch Whisky' outlined in the draft Regulations. |
Given the furore over the definitions that ensued and the continuing 'confusion' (lack of interest?) on the part of the man in the street, this response seems almost comical now. Besides, anyone who really wants to know can easily find out, we're not morons. Loch Lomond have continued to release 'single malt', though I am unclear if they are still adding 'Coffey malt'. Also I'm unclear if the regulations have the force of law, especially as the company that owns the distillery is not signed up to the SWA, and I am unaware of any subsequent legal action.
As an aside, Loch Lomond whisky (and its alter egos, e.g. Croftengea, Craiglodge, Inchfad, Inchmurrin) have sometimes been a subject of mirth in whisky circles and often receive scathing reviews from critics and amateur reviewers (cf. Johannes van den Heuvel's Malt Madness article linked above). However this doesn't necessarily mean they are in the wrong when it comes to their spat with the SWA. And they have at least one famous fan in the form of Captain Haddock of Tintin fame! In fact, checking my 2012 Whisky Bible, it appears Jim Murray enjoys some of their output too. I haven't tried any of their products myself so I can't comment in all fairness.
As for the Coffey malt issue, my own view is that there is obviously an interest in maintaining a differentiation at retail between 100% barley whisky produced via continuous distillation and that produced in pot stills (including Lomond stills, of which the Loch Lomond distillery incidentally has four). There would be clear commercial implications without such a distinction. However the SWA could probably have been more accommodating given the clear historical precedent for this kind of product. As Dave Broom points out, the technique of finishing was not invented until the 1990s (by Balvenie unless I'm mistaken), yet this is permitted by the SWA. Falling back on excuses about consumer confusion, picking and choosing which traditions to uphold and apparently wilfully ignoring the evidence is simply not professional. To those who care about the true traditions of whisky, warts and all, it does not paint the SWA in a good light. It's almost as if they are trying to say "this is the tradition, from now on!" _________________ "Whisky is liquid sunshine."
[George Bernard Shaw] |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
|

|
 |
bifter Master Of Malts

Joined: 10 Apr 2012 Posts: 1403 Location: East Lothian
|
Posted: Thu Jan 16, 2014 10:03 pm Post subject: |
|
|
The Loch Lomond distillery Web site is actually very informative and has an online shop section, with a wide range of whiskies including some single cask releases. You can access it here:
http://www.lochlomonddistillery.com/ _________________ "Whisky is liquid sunshine."
[George Bernard Shaw] |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
TheWM Master Of Malts

Joined: 26 Nov 2012 Posts: 2037 Location: Cheshire
|
Posted: Thu Jan 16, 2014 10:58 pm Post subject: |
|
|
bifter - you raise excellent points and a view which I would say I totally share.
As mentioned on the previous thread, I have grave doubts about the SWA and whether they as they state on their website:
We protect and promote Scotch Whisky
Or, as I suspect they protect their members' interests.
I haven't checked yet, but if they are anything like the Portland Group or The Press Complaints Commission, who whilst masquerading as some kind of regulatory body are in fact funded by a few big players, who set these types of body up to protect their own interests.
A quick glance at their website would show that neither Compass Box or Loch Lomond are members but have incurred their wrath, for what I believe are relatively minor issues in the scheme of things.
I was skimming over the regulations the other day and, again couldn't believe that a lot of time and trouble they've gone to to get a bill passed in 2009 has very little about what goes into what you drink/quality, well you know, I won't go on:
http://www.scotch-whisky.org.uk/media/12744/scotchwhiskyregguidance2009.pdf
But anyway, yes - it does appear that there are enforceable powers but by local Councils via trading standards.
As to the Coffey Malt - can't see what the fuss is about really. I'm going to read a bit more on my Dave Broom book that I got at Christmas and that may give me some more food for thought. |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
Grant M Master Of Malts

Joined: 23 Feb 2010 Posts: 2096 Location: Northern Ireland
|
Posted: Thu Jan 16, 2014 11:49 pm Post subject: |
|
|
| I have only ever had a bottle of the NAS Loch Lomond single malt and i thought it was pretty poor, which method they used to produce it i dont know but it convinced me not to ever buy anything from Loch Lomond again without first trying it but i have never come across it at tasting events so i have never had the chance to say whether the NAS was just a poor entry level malt. |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
Mark Master Of Malts

Joined: 27 Sep 2006 Posts: 1663
|
Posted: Fri Jan 17, 2014 12:14 am Post subject: |
|
|
| Grant M wrote: | | I have only ever had a bottle of the NAS Loch Lomond single malt and i thought it was pretty poor, which method they used to produce it i dont know but it convinced me not to ever buy anything from Loch Lomond again without first trying it but i have never come across it at tasting events so i have never had the chance to say whether the NAS was just a poor entry level malt. | I thought the Loch Lomond NAS contained very very young whisky, like you Grant it didnt inspire me to want to try anything else from the distillery. |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
bifter Master Of Malts

Joined: 10 Apr 2012 Posts: 1403 Location: East Lothian
|
Posted: Fri Jan 17, 2014 12:26 am Post subject: |
|
|
| TheWM wrote: | | A quick glance at their website would show that neither Compass Box or Loch Lomond are members but have incurred their wrath, for what I believe are relatively minor issues in the scheme of things. |
With regard to the Compass Box I assume you are referring to the staves issue?
Another example of this kind of behaviour might be their stone-walling of sulphur as an issue. As much as it has become a one-man bandwagon in the media it is a real problem (bar for those lucky enough to be sulphur-tolerant) that they seem to have no interest in addressing properly. One can only assume this is for commercial reasons, in which context their mission statement sounds almost sinister.
On the Coffey malt issue I can understand the desire to maintain a definition of pot-still malt that distinguishes it from that of a continuous still, they're pretty different products. However what they have done by their actions is to deny aspects of the heritage of the very industry that they purport to hold dear. And it is not as if they were not offered a compromise. If the issue ended up in court it wouldn't, prima facie, appear to be a straightforward victory for the SWA.
I have actually written to the Loch Lomond distillery to see what the state of play is currently. Their Web site seems to state that their single malt is produced solely using pot stills and I found the following text:
| Quote: | | The single malts that are produced in many areas of Scotland must be the product of a single distillery. Here at Loch Lomond we produce the unique, 'Loch Lomond Single Grain', which is a blend of single malt and grain whiskies, all produced in this distillery. |
Is this a reference to Coffey malt? Otherwise, it would surely have to be classified as a blend. Interestingly, Loch Lomond also produce a 'single blend' product. So are they now abiding by the 2009 regs? Hopefully I will get a response to clarify. _________________ "Whisky is liquid sunshine."
[George Bernard Shaw] |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
|

|
 |
Big Mac Master Of Malts

Joined: 02 Nov 2006 Posts: 2216 Location: USA - Formerly Scotland
|
Posted: Fri Jan 17, 2014 2:42 am Post subject: |
|
|
I have to say the SWA has been around for a very long time and they do work hard to protect Scotch whisky worldwide, i really dont think Scotch whisky would be in the position it is in today without the SWA and its members.
Single malt whisky to me is more that just whisky produced using malted barley to me it is only single malt when produced using copper pot stills not a continuous still method which will produce a very different whisky with less character and it was correct that exception was taken to them doing it but it is all ancient history now.
Loch Lomond to me has always been a whisky factory which has never produced anything which i have tasted and rated as worth drinking again. Things may have changed in todays whisky world where drinkers demand more and perhaps they are putting more quality into their production and maturation to produce a higher quality whisky, although i havent heard if there is currently anything worth trying from the Loch Lomond whisky factory. |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
Samson Master Of Malts


Joined: 24 Nov 2007 Posts: 1718 Location: Canada
|
Posted: Fri Jan 17, 2014 4:56 am Post subject: |
|
|
| It always seemed to me like Loch Lomond simply tried to get away with producing malt whisky using a continuous still method for profit, as you say Mac it is all very much history now. |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
albo Master Of Malts

Joined: 22 Mar 2011 Posts: 1888
|
Posted: Fri Jan 17, 2014 10:24 am Post subject: |
|
|
I can see both sides of this, though I have to say, while she SWA do lots of great work for the whisky industry and have done so throughout the years, in some instances I think they may be holding back innovation, which in a quick shifting market place isn't really a good nor forward thinking idea.
In this instance, while I understand the line the SWA are taking, I don't think they are altogether correct. What Loch Lomand have produced by all accounts is some pretty horrendous stuff, I get that, I've never heard a word in favour of it. However, that does not make what they are wanting to try wrong. I think the SWA could have given a new whisky classification for this purpose, something that quite clearly distinguishes it from Malt whisky as we know it, that would open up a new arm of whisky, not quite grain and not quite malt. We know at the moment that what LL produced was naff, but who's to say that in time it wouldn't have gotten better if allowed the room to grow and innovate. At the end of the day its a consumer driven market, if there was no place for this nobody would buy it and LL would quickly stop producing it. If however, it turned out to be fairly good, then we could have a new type of whisky on the market which should very well be much cheaper than Malt Whisky as it stands now. That's no bad thing in my mind. It's not attempting to replace Malt Whisky, its just a new innovative strand of whisky and as long as it is clearly labelled and marketed as such I personally see no reason for it not to be included. |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
Alexppp Master Of Malts

Joined: 16 Jul 2010 Posts: 1791
|
Posted: Fri Jan 17, 2014 11:34 am Post subject: |
|
|
| albo wrote: | | I can see both sides of this, though I have to say, while she SWA do lots of great work for the whisky industry and have done so throughout the years, in some instances I think they may be holding back innovation, which in a quick shifting market place isn't really a good nor forward thinking idea. |
That's almost exactly what the founder of Compass Box said in a tasting, word for word practically. |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
albo Master Of Malts

Joined: 22 Mar 2011 Posts: 1888
|
Posted: Fri Jan 17, 2014 11:38 am Post subject: |
|
|
| Alexppp wrote: | | albo wrote: | | I can see both sides of this, though I have to say, while she SWA do lots of great work for the whisky industry and have done so throughout the years, in some instances I think they may be holding back innovation, which in a quick shifting market place isn't really a good nor forward thinking idea. |
That's almost exactly what the founder of Compass Box said in a tasting, word for word practically. |
Sadly I'm not the founder of Compass Box. Great minds 'n' all that.
<----- Him
<----- Me |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
TheWM Master Of Malts

Joined: 26 Nov 2012 Posts: 2037 Location: Cheshire
|
Posted: Fri Jan 17, 2014 11:52 am Post subject: |
|
|
| bifter wrote: |
With regard to the Compass Box I assume you are referring to the staves issue?
|
Yes, and what you said about the sulphur is spot on too. Some acknowledgement / guidance and advice wouldn't go amiss.
| Alexppp wrote: | | albo wrote: | | I can see both sides of this, though I have to say, while she SWA do lots of great work for the whisky industry and have done so throughout the years, in some instances I think they may be holding back innovation, which in a quick shifting market place isn't really a good nor forward thinking idea. |
That's almost exactly what the founder of Compass Box said in a tasting, word for word practically. |
My own view is this, in that they are intentionally holding back what may be threats to the big players.
Generally, in regulated industries (see utilities/banks/etc..), the big players welcome regulations and those that enforce them to make the regulations onerous and heavy handed (so there is a cost barrier to entry), but also do not like new entrants doing things differently and upsetting the establishment.
Anyone that saw 'Bank of Dave' that was on C4 last year (I think there is a follow up...), would have seen how heavy handed, time consuming, bureaucratic and costly it takes for a newcomer to join an established industry. You can replicate that experience in most industries.
I should say, having worked for two regulators and currently working in a regulated field arguing against the regulators, I have seen this all too often. |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
|

|
 |
albo Master Of Malts

Joined: 22 Mar 2011 Posts: 1888
|
Posted: Fri Jan 17, 2014 12:00 pm Post subject: |
|
|
| TheWM wrote: | | bifter wrote: |
With regard to the Compass Box I assume you are referring to the staves issue?
|
Yes, and what you said about the sulphur is spot on too. Some acknowledgement / guidance and advice wouldn't go amiss.
| Alexppp wrote: | | albo wrote: | | I can see both sides of this, though I have to say, while she SWA do lots of great work for the whisky industry and have done so throughout the years, in some instances I think they may be holding back innovation, which in a quick shifting market place isn't really a good nor forward thinking idea. |
That's almost exactly what the founder of Compass Box said in a tasting, word for word practically. |
My own view is this, in that they are intentionally holding back what may be threats to the big players.
Generally, in regulated industries (see utilities/banks/etc..), the big players welcome regulations and those that enforce them to make the regulations onerous and heavy handed (so there is a cost barrier to entry), but also do not like new entrants doing things differently and upsetting the establishment.
Anyone that saw 'Bank of Dave' that was on C4 last year (I think there is a follow up...), would have seen how heavy handed, time consuming, bureaucratic and costly it takes for a newcomer to join an established industry. You can replicate that experience in most industries.
I should say, having worked for two regulators and currently working in a regulated field arguing against the regulators, I have seen this all too often. |
Corruption is rife, we all get that, but what I don't understand in this circumstance is why the big players would object to this, nothing at all is stopping them getting on this band waggon, it could be a massive money spinner to all. Imagine if the continuious malt (that's what I'll call it) turns out to be OK but not great, but it may be a blenders dream, the could be making their blends using continuious malt and save themselves millions. I see no reason why all the big players wouldn't want a slice of that action. |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
TheWM Master Of Malts

Joined: 26 Nov 2012 Posts: 2037 Location: Cheshire
|
Posted: Fri Jan 17, 2014 12:30 pm Post subject: |
|
|
| albo wrote: |
Corruption is rife, we all get that, but what I don't understand in this circumstance is why the big players would object to this, nothing at all is stopping them getting on this band waggon, it could be a massive money spinner to all. Imagine if the continuious malt (that's what I'll call it) turns out to be OK but not great, but it may be a blenders dream, the could be making their blends using continuious malt and save themselves millions. I see no reason why all the big players wouldn't want a slice of that action. |
Don't know is the honest answer.
There are several possible explanations, but as a pure guess, the big players only would do a big amount at a time and currently, as by all accounts the stuff isn't great, is not worth them taking the time to get involved and stick to what they know will reward them handsomely.
I'll email a guy I know who works at Mortlach. He might be able to shed more light on this. |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
bifter Master Of Malts

Joined: 10 Apr 2012 Posts: 1403 Location: East Lothian
|
Posted: Fri Jan 17, 2014 1:37 pm Post subject: |
|
|
| Big Mac wrote: | | to me it is only single malt when produced using copper pot stills not a continuous still method which will produce a very different whisky with less character and it was correct that exception was taken to them doing it |
With all due respect that is a valid opinion but it doesn't address the points raised by Dave Broom et al.
I know someone who works for SWA and I am aware that they do a lot of good work, especially in combating counterfeiting, e.g. I understand more Johnnie Walker is sold in India each year than is actually made in Scotland Many trade bodies do a lot of good work but that doesn't mean they're infallible. _________________ "Whisky is liquid sunshine."
[George Bernard Shaw] |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
|
|
You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum
|
|
|
|