Dalmore 15

[bifter]

In the recent patents trial between Apple and Samsung I learnt a new phrase - 'trade dress'. This is defined by Wikipedia as 'a legal term of art that generally refers to characteristics of the visual appearance of a product or its packaging'. At the current time, appeal notwithstanding, Apple have successfully managed to argue that Samsung imitated Apple phones and tablets in an attempt to acquire some of the cachet that Apple products have. Well, I must admit, I avoid Apple products as I regard them as stylish but overpriced and Apple followers strike me as a bit cultish. Bringing this analogy round to whisky, I have until recently avoided Dalmore for much the same reason. As one of the brands that receives the luxury brand marketing treatment, I have long suspected that the price of the expressions might outstrip the quality. Dalmore regularly release bottlings that retail for tens of thousands of pounds and the 'trade dress' has obviously been given a lot of attention, even at the lower end of the scale.

Recently though, passing through Barcelona airport I came across a one litre bottle of Dalmore 15 for €42.40, or roughly £34, which has to be a decent price for any 15 year old malt and, more importantly, allowed me to put aside my inhibitions about the Dalmore pricing strategy. The 15 is matured in bourbon casks for 12 years and is then finished in three types of Oloroso cask from the González Byass stable - Apostles, Metuzalem and Amoroso. I do love a sherry monster so how does this one measure up?

In the glass the liquid has a dark, burgundy colour, so dark in fact that it more than hints at caramel colouring and online research seems to confirm this. The liquid appears viscous but the legs aren't huge. On the nose the overriding aroma is of oranges and marmalade with notes of sherry (obviously), ginger cake, dark wood and nutmeg. There is also the merest hint of cordite (that is to say sulphur), which is a little more noticeable with water, nothing off-putting though. I have to say, for me, this noses older than it actually is but with some imperfections. The palate is smooth, rich and sweet. Raisins and dried fruits are evoked and I was also put in mind of crème brûl?e, including the burnt sugar. The mouthfeel is heavy and oily, with water really getting the oils going. I found the finish a little shorter than expected after what had gone before but not unpleasant, drying with oaky and cinammon notes.

This isn't quite perfection but isn't bad at all. I had wondered if it would cut the mustard at 40% but it is sufficient (unlike some) and even benefits from a drop or two of water. A good winter warmer or post-prandial digestif perhaps? I'm not blown away and I don't know that I'd pay the regular asking price, which projects it into the same league as Lagavulin 16 for example. Jim Murray affords it 83.5, saying that it 'coasts along the runway but simply fails to get off the ground' and I can't really demur.
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"Whisky is liquid sunshine."
[George Bernard Shaw]

[Quaich1]

I have an unopened bottle of Dalmore 12. Jim Murray rates it at 90. Have you tried the 12 and if yes, how would you say they compare?
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"Always carry a large flagon of whisky in case of snakebite and furthermore always carry a small snake."
W.C. Fields (1880-1946)

[bifter]

As I say I've always been reticent about ponying up for Dalmore and it rarely seems to be discounted so this is actually the first bottle I've bought. Short of the stellar-priced expressions, the 12 seems to get the highest mark from Jim Murray, would be interested in your thoughts when you get round to opening it. The 15 has a lot going for it but there are noticeable imperfections.
_________________
"Whisky is liquid sunshine."
[George Bernard Shaw]