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27th January 2020 |
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Once again
guest writer, Murray Cohen, a Member of
the International Order of the
Companions of the Quaich in Canada and
Scotch Malt Whisky Forum Member attended
the annual Vintages/LCBO sponsored "An
Evening of Scottish Virtuosity" event in
Toronto, Canada which was presented this
year by Stuart Brown, the first Canadian
whisky ambassador for Johnnie Walker and
Diageo whisky.

The much anticipated and oft-times recognized premier single malt event of the Toronto whisky scene "An Evening of Scottish Virtuosity" was held once again at the historic National Club on Bay St. and hosted by Vintages/LCBO. Special guest Stuart Brown, the first Canadian whisky ambassador for Johnnie Walker and Diageo whisky consultant led a structured tasting of the eight single malts from the 2019 "Rare by Nature" Cask Strength Collection. Stuart noted that Dr. Craig Wilson, Master of Malts for Diageo was intricately involved in the formulation of these whiskies.
Stuart introduced each of these eight whiskies from this collection with a retrospective regarding each distillery with tidbits of information not often known about them. Here are a few of his details and some of my own:
The Dalwhinnie Distillery is situated 1100 feet above sea level and hence is the highest altitude distillery in all of Scotland.
Glen Ord is the only remaining distillery on the Black Isle. In its early days, the distillery operated under the name of the Ord Distillery Company then Glen Oran and finally Glen Ord.
Cardhu distillery was started in 1824 by Helen Cummings. Actually, her daughter-in-law Elizabeth Cummings took over in 1872.
Cragganmore was founded in 1869 by John Smith and the location partly chosen because it was close to the Strathspey Railway.
Mortlach Distillery was founded in 1823 by James Findlater. It is also notable that the founder of Glenfiddich Distillery, William Grant, worked at Mortlach for twenty years prior.
Talisker was established in 1830 by Kenneth and Hugh MacAskill and is based in Carbost. It is noted that after the fire in 1960, five perfectly exact copies of the original stills were constructed to maintain the flavor dynamics of the originals.
Pittyvaich Distillery known as "Little Bay" was built by Arthur Bell & Sons and was one of the youngest Scottish distilleries during its years of operation. It closed in 1993 and was demolished, ergo its designation as a "ghost distillery".
The origin of Lagavulin Distillery dates back to 1816 and the efforts of Johnston & Brooks. I understand that there were originally two distilleries on the site and one of them became Lagavulin.
Besides the Rare by Nature collection of 8 whiskies, Stuart also presented a blended scotch whisky, John Walker & Sons King George V produced with some rarer single grains and single malts in combination.

The nine whiskies tasted on the
night
at an
"Evening of Scottish Virtuosity 2020"
were:
- Dalwhinnie 30 Year Cask Strength
- Singleton of Glen Ord 18 Year
Cask Strength
- Cardhu 14 Year Cask Strength
- Cragganmore 12 Year Cask
Strength
- Mortlach 26 Year Cask Strength
- Talisker 15 Cask Strength
- Pittyvaich 29 Year cask Strength
- Lagavulin 12 Cask Strength
- John Walker & Sons King George V
You will find my description of the nine
single malts sampled on the evening
below, along with my own detailed taste
notes and score for each of the nine
drams.
Most of the whiskies are available to
buy from specialist online whisky shops
such as
The Whisky Shop,
The Whisky Exchange and
Master of Malt
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Dalwhinnie 30 Year Cask Strength Review
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Bottled at 54.7% ABV. This whisky was
matured in refill hogsheads and butts
and distilled in 1987.
Murray Cohen's Tasting Notes:
Colour:
Light gold.
Nose:
Canadian nanaimo bars ( consists of
three layers: a wafer, nut, and coconut
crumb base; custard in the middle; and a
layer of chocolate ganache on top).
Intense apricot follows, two dozen
roses, dark chocolate chip cookies,
vanilla bean, honey and heather, cookies
and cream ice cream, malty with subdued
spice elements.
Taste:
Full-bodied, oily with an oaky
undercurrent yet syrupy sweet at times
and filled with hazelnut pastry.
Finish:
Long, mocha and vanilla nougat thrive
with chocolate halvah and dessert
toppings.
Comment:
The high ABV here turns the key to
another taste level. This is a much more
robust Dalwhinnie expression with depth
and character.
SMW Score
94.5/100
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Singleton of Glen Ord 18 Year Cask Strength Review
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Bottled at 55% ABV. This whisky was
matured in freshly charred American Oak
hogshead and distilled in 2000.
Murray Cohen's Tasting Notes:
Colour:
Gold.
Nose:
Lemon meringue with generalized citrus
hues, grandma mixing her pastry dough,
candied elements, honeydew melon,
toffee, thick honey with caramelized
plantains on the side. Late serving of
almond croissants.
Taste:
Full-bodied with slow developing legs,
brown sugar, molasses, drying with slabs
of French toast and egg nog infusion.
Finish:
Long, super drying with cocoa, spice and
pleasant toasted oakiness.
Comment:
The pungent nose here creates olfactory
bliss. You never want the sweet aromatic
bouquet to stop.
SMW Score
93/100
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Cardhu 14 Year Cask Strength Review
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Bottled at 55% ABV. This is a small
batch double matured in Amontillado
sherry-seasoned hogsheads. Distilled in
2004.
Murray Cohen's Tasting Notes:
Colour:
Light gold.
Nose:
Sweets shop, Easter egg style white
chocolate, Lilly of the Valley, pot
pourri,, honey, ripe fruit, rice
pudding, sprinkles of vanilla icing,
caramelized sugar, maple syrup and
Boston cream pie metamorphosing to
coconut cream pie.
Taste:
Full-bodied, smooth and rich, caramel
and chocolate cherry blossom candy.
Finish:
Long, drying, “stretchy” toffee, spice
tenticles, stewed dark fruit in heavy
medium sweet syrup.
Comment:
A delectable cask strength whisky
bolstered by its sherry influence and
heritage.
SMW Score
93.5/100
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Cragganmore 12 Year Cask Strength Review
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Bottled at 58.4% ABV. Matured in refill
American oak casks.
Murray Cohen's Tasting Notes:
Colour:
Hay.
Nose:
Pineapple slices with a smoky halo,
fireplace remembrances, vanilla malted
milk with a toasty tang, citrus, sweet
baked apple and hint of cinnamon spice.
Taste:
Full-bodied, mild smoke with some
peppery awareness, light tannins, toffee
and coffee crisp chocolate bar.
Finish:
Long, maple fudge with a sweetness
eruption, MacIntosh apples, honey and
vanilla.
Comment:
The highest cask strength whisky of the
evening which taken neat does not
disappoint.
SMW Score
92.5/100
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Mortlach 26 Year Cask Strength Review
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Bottled at 53.3% ABV. Matured in first
fill Pedro Ximenez/Oloroso seasoned
casks.
Murray Cohen's Tasting Notes:
Colour:
Mahogany.
Nose:
Cherries jubilee, Maraschino cherries in
heavy syrup, rum and raisin ice cream,
sweet berries in Devon cream, Turkish
delight, California raisins, red candied
beer nuts, sweet grape skins and
thickened intense ulmo honey.
Taste:
Full-bodied, legs like tree stumps,
mouth filling; strawberries,
crystallized vanilla and a cornucopia of
fruits ripened to perfection.
Finish:
Long, soft banana nougat candy, baked
apples, candy shop infusion with premier
hand-made confections and a nutty sweet
paste.
Comment:
This whisky is meaty and voluptuous,
thick and robust. Satisfies like a 6
course meal and perhaps instead of its
moniker of “The Beast of Dufftown” it
should perhaps be known as “The Feast of
Dufftown” so filling and divine.
SMW Score
97.5/100
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Talisker 15 Cask Strength Review
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Bottled at 57.3% ABV. Matured only in
freshly charred American oak hogshead.
Murray Cohen's Tasting Notes:
Colour:
Gold.
Nose:
Citrus hues, camp fire accents, sweet
peat, smoky pea soup, medicinal, dark
cherries and stewed fruit and waves of
malted mocha bubbles.
Taste:
Full-bodied, peat and spice, chewy,
pepper, hint of chillies and scoops of
Neapolitan ice cream.
Finish:
Long, sea salty, fireplace reminders,
perseveration of dark cherries and Big
Turk chocolate bar.
Comment:
A reminder of what an island whisky
should taste like.
SMW Score
93/100
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Pittyvaich 29 Year cask Strength Review
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Bottled at 51.4% ABV. Double matured in
Pedro Ximenez and Oloroso sherry
seasoned casks. Distilled in 1989.
Murray Cohen's Tasting Notes:
Colour:
Gold.
Nose:
Butterscotch lollipop, buttermilk
pancakes, peanut brittle, old-fashioned
fruit jam, orange marmalade and meringue
with a pot pourri flourish.
Taste:
Smooth, full-bodied, dark plums, grape
skins, dark chocolate and layered sherry
derivatives.
Finish:
Long, sweet and nutty, sultana raisins,
chocolate walnut torta cake and ginger
fragments.
Comment:
The sherry influence here “makes the
day” and sketches a most satisfying nose
and palate profile.
SMW Score
95.5/100
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Lagavulin 12 Cask Strength Review
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Bottled at 56.5% ABV. Matured in refill
American oak casks.
Murray Cohen's Tasting Notes:
Colour:
Light gold.
Nose:
Toasted marshmallow oozing sweetness,
sugary, honey dew melon, lemon meringue,
generalized candy aromas especially red
laces (licorice) and a delectable peat
on the perimeter.
Taste:
Full-bodied, sweet peat, creamy, old
fashioned vanilla malted milk, and a
level of perkiness commensurate with its
high ABV. As little Red Riding Hood in
the famous fairy tale would say: "It’s
just right".
Finish:
Long, extra sweet buttermilk, fruity,
spice, assorted melons (honey dew and
cantaloupe) and perseverating delectable
peat.
Comment:
The ABV here sends the whisky to the
heavens with a constellation of
sweetness factors.
SMW Score
95.5/100
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John Walker & Sons King George V Review
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Bottled at 43% ABV. This blended scotch
whisky includes Port Ellen, Cardhu,
Lochnagar and some very old grain whisky
like Cameronbridge and Port Dundas.
Murray Cohen's Tasting Notes:
Colour:
Dark gold.
Nose:
A variety of apple slices, cashew nuts,
nectarines and peach fuzz, fruity sweet,
orange zest, citrus treacle and
mandarins with loads of juicy fruit gum.
Taste:
Full-bodied, honey and sesame seeds,
sweet hummus and tahini sides, chocolate
fudgesicles and a nutty melange.
Finish:
Long, toffee, honey wafers, swirls of
caramel and vanilla nougat.
Comment:
A blended scotch whisky which is
recreating recipes from the old days and
succeeds with panache.
SMW Score
94.5/100
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